In Germany 1922

In Schwarzwald


Chink Dorman-Smith



Black Forest



Gasthaus Rossele


Paris was very hot and humid in the Summer of 1922.
In August, Ernest got a passport for himself and Hadley for travel to Germany. They were going to go on a hiking tour and fishing trip in the Black Forest region where they hoped that it would be cooler.
They invited Bill Bird and his wife Sally, and Lewis Galantiere and his fiance, Dorothy Butler to come along.
The dollar was being exchanged at 605 marks to a dollar, so Ernest was counting on a vacation that wouldn't break the household funds. He was also hoping to get some material for a story that he could sell to The Star.
Earnest and Hadley decided to fly from Paris to Strasbourg to save eight hours of travelling by train. Hadley was eager for the adventure of her first flight and took the two and a half hour flight in such stride that she fell asleep before the landing.
The six hikers met in Strasbourg on August 3rd and crossed into Germany. They headed to Triberg to fish, but they were not pleased with the crowds of Germans - who were not pleased with them. Ernest thought the Germans to be loud, rude, and rough with women. They managed to get some fishing in away from the crowds of German hikers. Hadley was becoming quite skilled at catching trout.
One day near Oberprechtal the thirsty and hungry hikers stopped at an inn for rooms and food. The innkeeper refused to serve them. He was still bitter towards foreigners because Germany had lost the war. They hiked an additional four miles of "hot, white road" until they came upon the Gasthaus Rossele or Inn of the Pony. It seems that the pony is the favorite symbol of Black Forest inn keepers. Here they were given rooms and they were served food and beer.
By mid-August, the Birds, Galantiere and Dorothy Butler were heading back to Paris. Ernest and Hadley continued alone down the Rhine to Coblenz. There they met Eric "Chink" Dorman-Smith, a friend of Ernest's since 1918 when they met in Italy. (He would become the godfather of the Hemingway's first child. Gertrude Stein and Alice B. Toklas were the joint godmothers.)
Hemingway managed to get three stories forThe Toronto Daily Star: "German Inn-Keepers," "A Paris-To-Strasbourg Flight," and "German Inflation."
The Hemingways returned to Paris by train on August 31st.

The Hemingways In Schruns

When the cold, damp, grey air of Winter hit Paris, the Hemingways would head to Switzerland or Austria for the dry cold air, the skiing, and a roaring fire in the lodge.
These photos are from Schruns, Austria, taken in 1925. Ernest, Hadley, and Bumby.

Hemingway And Hadley

A Moveable Feast is not just about Hemingway learning to perfect his style of writing & living the Bohemian life - it is a love story about his first wife, Hadley.
He was married four times and had many affairs, but his "book of sketches" is saturated with sketches of Hadley and the things that they did together.
In this 1922 photo they are in Chamby, Switzerland, a favorite spot for them in the winter.
A photo of Hadley from an older post

HERE

Ernest In Switzerland

Ernest and Hadley liked to get out of the damp cold of Paris in the winter for the clean air of alpine Switzerland and Austria.
They'd rent a cabin or find a hotel to use as a base camp to ski and hike from.
Ernest always ended up with skin browned by the high altitude sun.
These photos were taken in Gstaad, Switzerland in 1927.

Bumby Is Born

Harry Hindmarsch



Hadley, "Bumby", and Ernest in Schruns, Austria, in 1926. The family was in Schruns for their winter vacation. They preferred the alpine climate to Paris in the winter.
Bumby was born John Hadley Niconor Hemingway, in October, 1923. The baby was named in honor of his mother and the Spanish matador Villalta.
Hadley wanted the baby to be born back home because she disrusted European medical proceedures and it would be psychologically more comfortable for her. Ernest thought that with the baby on the way he had better get a regular job and decided on trying for a position at the Toronto Star. They sailed to Canada from Cherbourg on August 26, 1923 on the Cunard liner Andania. It took ten days to reach Quebec. Bumby was born on October 9, 1923 in Toronto, while Ernest was rushing home from a journalism assignment in New York. Ernest never forgave the editor of the Toronto Star, Harry Hindmarsh, for sending him on that assignment.
Gertrude Stein is babysitting "Bumby" in the Luxembourg Gardens in the last photo.

At The Track

Gare du Nord Station

Ernest and Hadley used to go to the horse track at Auteuil to relax and possibly make some money. They would leave from the Gare du Nord train station and go "through the dirtiest and saddest part of town and walked from the siding to the oasis of the track." They enjoyed that patch of greenery that the track provided just outside the middle of urban Paris.
Ernest found it to be hard work, as he put it; learning about the horses, the odds, jockeys, owners and track conditions. Hadley would bet on the long shots, with little study, and often with good results.
Eventually, Hemingway found that he was spending too much time and money at the track and gave it up as a bad habit. The End of an Avocation, is the name of the chapter in "A Moveable Feast."