In Germany 1922

In Schwarzwald


Chink Dorman-Smith



Black Forest



Gasthaus Rossele


Paris was very hot and humid in the Summer of 1922.
In August, Ernest got a passport for himself and Hadley for travel to Germany. They were going to go on a hiking tour and fishing trip in the Black Forest region where they hoped that it would be cooler.
They invited Bill Bird and his wife Sally, and Lewis Galantiere and his fiance, Dorothy Butler to come along.
The dollar was being exchanged at 605 marks to a dollar, so Ernest was counting on a vacation that wouldn't break the household funds. He was also hoping to get some material for a story that he could sell to The Star.
Earnest and Hadley decided to fly from Paris to Strasbourg to save eight hours of travelling by train. Hadley was eager for the adventure of her first flight and took the two and a half hour flight in such stride that she fell asleep before the landing.
The six hikers met in Strasbourg on August 3rd and crossed into Germany. They headed to Triberg to fish, but they were not pleased with the crowds of Germans - who were not pleased with them. Ernest thought the Germans to be loud, rude, and rough with women. They managed to get some fishing in away from the crowds of German hikers. Hadley was becoming quite skilled at catching trout.
One day near Oberprechtal the thirsty and hungry hikers stopped at an inn for rooms and food. The innkeeper refused to serve them. He was still bitter towards foreigners because Germany had lost the war. They hiked an additional four miles of "hot, white road" until they came upon the Gasthaus Rossele or Inn of the Pony. It seems that the pony is the favorite symbol of Black Forest inn keepers. Here they were given rooms and they were served food and beer.
By mid-August, the Birds, Galantiere and Dorothy Butler were heading back to Paris. Ernest and Hadley continued alone down the Rhine to Coblenz. There they met Eric "Chink" Dorman-Smith, a friend of Ernest's since 1918 when they met in Italy. (He would become the godfather of the Hemingway's first child. Gertrude Stein and Alice B. Toklas were the joint godmothers.)
Hemingway managed to get three stories forThe Toronto Daily Star: "German Inn-Keepers," "A Paris-To-Strasbourg Flight," and "German Inflation."
The Hemingways returned to Paris by train on August 31st.

Running Of The Bulls

This week it is the "running of the bulls" in Pamplona, Northern Spain, at the Festival of San Fermin. Young men have been participating in this ceremony since the 1600's, but Hemingway's "The Sun Also Rises" published in 1926, made it the event that it is today.
Gertrude Stein recommended to Hemingway that he take a vacation there to help him "clear his head" and concentrate on the business of writing a novel.
These photos are from 1925, one year before he finished his novel.
Top photo: Hemingway on the left, Harold Loeb, Lady Duff Twysden, Hadley, Don Stewart and Pat Guthrie.
(If you click on the bottom photo, you will see Ernest just in front of the bull as he participates in "the amateurs.")

Picasso And Gertrude Stein

Pablo Picasso was one of Gertrude Stein's favorite artists and social contacts in Paris.

Gertrude Stein is shown sitting in front of a portrait of her painted by Picasso. The photo was taken by Man Ray in 1922. More on Miss Stein and Hemingway can be found in an earler post

Bumby Is Born

Harry Hindmarsch



Hadley, "Bumby", and Ernest in Schruns, Austria, in 1926. The family was in Schruns for their winter vacation. They preferred the alpine climate to Paris in the winter.
Bumby was born John Hadley Niconor Hemingway, in October, 1923. The baby was named in honor of his mother and the Spanish matador Villalta.
Hadley wanted the baby to be born back home because she disrusted European medical proceedures and it would be psychologically more comfortable for her. Ernest thought that with the baby on the way he had better get a regular job and decided on trying for a position at the Toronto Star. They sailed to Canada from Cherbourg on August 26, 1923 on the Cunard liner Andania. It took ten days to reach Quebec. Bumby was born on October 9, 1923 in Toronto, while Ernest was rushing home from a journalism assignment in New York. Ernest never forgave the editor of the Toronto Star, Harry Hindmarsh, for sending him on that assignment.
Gertrude Stein is babysitting "Bumby" in the Luxembourg Gardens in the last photo.

Sherwood Anderson

Sherwood Anderson was one of the most influential people in Hemingway's early years as a writer, before he left for Paris.
Ernest was living with a friend, Y.K. Smith in a seven room apartment house in Chicago.
He landed a job editing a monthly magazine called The Cooperative Commonwealth.
Anderson lived near the apartment and was a welcome visitor. When Hadley and Ernest were thinking of getting married and going to Italy, Anderson said they ought to go to Paris instead. Anderson wrote letters of introduction for Ernest to Gertrude Stein and Sylvia Beach at Shakespeare and Co.
Anderson even recommended the Hotel Jacob for when the Hemingway's landed in France and an introduction to Lewis Galantiere who helped them find the apartment at 74, rue du Cardinal Lemoine.

Pamplona

This photo is from 1925, Ernest is in front of the bull; in the white pants and dark sweater.
He first went in 1923 after Gertrude Stein mentioned the Festival of San Fermin in Northern Spain as a good change of pace for him. He went for the second time in 1924 & again in 1927.

The Luxembourg Gardens

The Jardin du Luxembourg was one of Hemingway's
favorite retreats. The Gardens comprise sixty acres in the center of montparnasse. It was on the way to the Musee de
Luxembourg where he went to admire the Cezannes.
He would occasionally run into Gertrude Stein there
as she walked her dog.

A Glimpse of Gertrude Stein

In the bottom photo: Gertrude Stein - on the right - with companion, Alice B. Toklas.
Her apartment at 27 rue de Fleurus was a Mecca for young artists. Painters, poets, writers and sculptors sought out her advice and companionship. Her apartment became a "salon" on Saturday night, and attracted the avant garde. She seemed to have her finger on the pulse of all of the artists and expats. She was particularly good at spotting talented young painters. She would buy their paintings at bargain prices - invest in them - and wait until the paintings became valuable. She helped the new artists and herself this way.
She got along well with Hemingway in the early years, admiring his writing and his innocence in many areas of life in Paris.
He was fond of stopping by for the companionship, food, and a chance to look at her collection of paintings. In the winter it was also a nice warm spot to drop in on.
She seemed to know everyone worth knowing and had an opinion on most if not all.

This photo is by Man Ray.  Ms Stein is watching the sculptor Jo Davidson carve her "Buddha" statue in 1922.
The BBC (British Broadcasting Corporation) has a radio program called, "Great Lives." They recently did a program on Gertrude Stein's life:"Great Lives:Gertrude Stein"

Shakespeare And Company Bookstore

Sylvia Beach was the proprietor of Shakespeare And Company, a bookstore and more in Hemingway's Paris.
It was a cultural center for artists and particularly the American expatriate community. Hemingway used the lending library that was a part of the bookstore and the "post office" where expats had their mail forwarded .
She also provided credit to Hemingway.

The shop was located at 12 rue de L'Odeon. It was recommended to Hemingway by Sherwood Anderson, and was frequented by James Joyce (in the three photos with Sylvia Beach), F. Scott Fitzgerald, Gertrude Stein and many more memebers of the Paris art scene of the '20s.
In the first photo: James Joyce, Sylvia Beach, and Adrienne Monnier.

Hemingway liked to say that he was her best customer at the lending library.